1963 Hainaneses New Year

By: Rachel Chew

Back in 1963, families in the village woke up at the first call from the rooster.

Grandpa and men would leave home to go to work, after having a cup of black coffee with fried “yoo-tiao” or “bao” (a white color steam bun).

Grandma and women would be in the house to cook the meals, tender the farm animals, grow crops and wash the clothes; children will normally help with other house chores when they are back from schools.

When its lunchtime, bicycle bells can be heard from a distance- men often come home for lunch and set off to work again until late evening.

Old bicycle (with modification and repairing in between) carries memories since 1963.

Most of the time, dishes like steamed tofu, a variety of vegetables, and fried eggs are a meal for a large family of 10 people to go with a bowl of rice each.

“I really hate the static menu of meals,” said Chew Kah Peng, 54.

“But there’s nothing we can do about it, our tummies wouldn’t allow us to reject the only choice of food we have.”

“That’s why we love Chinese New Year so much- it’s the only time where we get to eat Hainam chicken rice that we dreamed of the entire year,” recalls Chew Kah Heng, 59.

To the Chinese, Chinese New Year is a break from the ordinary life. 

Money saved in the entire year is to be spent and give the whole family a treat on this special occasion.

Child dressed up by grandmother for CNY celebration.

A week before Chinese New Year, women in the neighborhood will buy the ingredients they need , gather in groups and make traditional cookies together while the men will do the spring-cleaning job, get spoiled furniture or ruined parts in the house fixed and children running errands for their parents.

Kitchen, 50 years ago, were typically huge, located at the back part, taking up almost half the space of the house.

Reunion dinner on New Year’s Eve is very important to the Chinese- it is the day where the whole family gathers on a round table in this cemented floor kitchen and indulge in grandma’s homemade Hainam chicken rice.

“Both pa and ma are pure Hainanese from Hainam Island that can cook the best Hainam chicken rice,” said Chew Kim Moi, 68.

“The chicken is from our farm, well fed with corns- unlike chicken nowadays that are mostly injected with chemicals,” continued Chew Kim Swee, 63.

The Chew family recalling CNY back in 1963.

On the eve before the big day, after praying to the ancestors, a chicken would be slaughtered, stuffed with garlic and other herbal ingredients then steamed in a big metal wok.

A plate is placed inside the wok to collect oil and essence from the chicken- this will be used to cook the rice scented with pandan leaves and garlic.

“The chicken oil gives the rice a good shine and soft texture,” said Kim Swee.

“It looks really appetizing and irresistible to not add an extra bowl of rice after you finish one,” continued Kah Heng.

When the meal is ready, well served with homemade chili sauce, the table will clear within minutes.

“It tastes so good that people nowadays name their hawker stalls Hainam chicken rice instead of Malaysia chicken rice to get better business,” Kim Swee laughed.

The secret recipe is passed down from generation to generation, and it won’t ever stop as a Chew family heritage.

The heritage recipe of Hainam Chicken Rice.

“Still, there is a difference between our cooking and mother’s,” said Kah Heng.

“Nothing can replace the taste from memories,” agreed Kim Moi.